The forthcoming 16th of December 2023 commemorates the 52nd Victory Day of Bangladesh, an event that is expected to serve as a significant turning point for the nation's garment sector. The textile sector, a crucial component of Bangladesh's economy, has garnered praise for its noteworthy export earnings of USD 19.9 billion during the initial half of the fiscal year 2021-22. However, today, it finds itself at a critical juncture. The visit to Bangladesh by a European Union (EU) delegation occurs amidst notable economic advancements and pressing social challenges, including significant labor conflicts and intricate matters about minimum wage regulations. This visit may serve as an in-depth examination, going beyond a routine inspection, to critically analyze the influence of the European Union on Bangladesh's labor industry and assess the country's adherence to international standards. This holds particular significance given the ongoing preparations for the nation's transition to the Generalized Scheme of Preferences Plus (GSP+), a trade accord that offers more advantageous circumstances.

During a phase of economic boom, the government of Bangladesh decided to increase the minimum wage for garment workers from Tk 8,000 to Tk 12,500. This particular choice has sparked significant discourse and deliberation. The magnitude of this rise, deemed inadequate by numerous labor organizations, is further diminished by an inflation rate of 9.63 percent. Consequently, it falls short of the recommended sustainable pay range proposed by Sanem, which spans from 19,200 to 30,000 taka. The ongoing challenges workers face, including rising costs of vital goods and inflation in the market, are often overshadowed by notable achievements in the realm of exports. The challenges were further exacerbated by the pandemic, leading to unemployment for approximately 300,000 individuals and causing others to have reduced income and extended work hours in their new positions.

In light of the prevailing circumstances, the presence of the European Union delegation assumes heightened importance. The potential ramifications of the delegation's findings could significantly influence forthcoming trade preferences, affecting Bangladesh's economy and labor conditions. The garment sector, which has considerable importance in the country's gross domestic product, is currently under examination regarding its treatment of employees and the living circumstances supplied to them. Despite notable improvements in industrial safety since the occurrence of the Rana Plaza catastrophe, there are still numerous unresolved inquiries about the overall security and rights of workers, encompassing matters such as equitable remuneration and legal safeguards.

The personnel dynamics of the sector also serve as a reflection of its evolution. As reported by Mapped in Bangladesh, the level of female engagement, which was formerly dominant, has experienced a recent decrease, resulting in a representation of only 58 percent. The challenges they face, encompassing extended work hours and insufficient access to childcare services, emphasize the imperative of implementing more equitable and inclusive laws and protocols. As the industry progresses towards increased mechanization, a subsequent cohort of entrepreneurs and workers emerges. The contemporary age is characterized by the emergence and growth of several groups, one notable example being the Bangladesh Apparel Youth Leaders Association (BAYLA). Nevertheless, this transition brings up various challenges for the labor force, specifically for second-generation workers grappling with fatigue and constrained entitlements.

Attempting to address the question of how salaries affect the performance of the textile sector in Bangladesh requires taking into account not only the current status of the economy in Bangladesh but also the continuous labor unrest in the nation. Workers' compensation is a persistent issue in Bangladesh's garment industry. While the low rates have enticed multinational firms to set up shop in Bangladesh, they often fail to keep pace with the country's rising living standards. Workers are the backbone of a thriving industry, but they aren't reaping the benefits of that success due to this disparity. Despite their significance, the imbalance has not been properly addressed. Their ability to keep up a healthy lifestyle and their ability to make ends meet are both harmed by the conflict. Low pay lead to increased worker stress, health issues, and lower productivity, all of which threaten the long-term health of the industry.

However, the garment industry is crucial to Bangladesh's economy due to the large sums of money it brings in from exports and the large number of people it employs. However, there is growing criticism of economies that use cheap wages to stay competitive in the global economy. The current state of the economy, which is defined by inflation and an increase in the cost of essentials, makes the plight of workers even more tough, which promotes industrial unrest. The unrest isn't just about salary; rather, it's a demand for more equitable distribution of the industry's earnings and greater economic stability for the workforce. Both are crucial for boosting productivity and morale in the workplace.

The decisions made during the visit conducted by the European Union (EU) team hold great importance, especially considering the upcoming general elections in Bangladesh. The scrutiny surrounding the ability of a nation to effectively balance its economic progress with the fulfillment of social and ethical obligations will be significant. This assessment aims to ascertain the extent to which progress is inclusive and advantageous for all segments of society, focusing on the most vulnerable. When undertaking a comprehensive examination of the achievements of the garment industry, it is imperative to extend the analysis beyond the company's proprietors and include the pivotal role played by the industry's workforce, who serve as the primary driving force within this sector.

In the above context, the sustainability of the garment industry in Bangladesh hinges on finding a balance. This involves raising wages to ensure workers' living standards while maintaining the industry's economic viability. It also addresses broader workers' rights, safety, and well-being issues. Providing a healthy work environment and fair compensation are essential for ensuring the long-term productivity and success of the garment sector. As Bangladesh grapples with these challenges, the future success of its garment industry will depend on its ability to evolve into a more equitable, socially responsible, and health-conscious sector.

Dr. Mohammad Shahidul Islam, Assistant Professor of Marketing, BRAC Business School, BRAC University. E-mail: mohd.sh.islam@bracu.ac.bd